Silver clay? What the hell is that? Is it clay made out of silver? Silver clay, precious metal clay, art metal clay, and art clay silver are all different terms and makes of "clay" that can be magically turned into silver and gold. These innovative metal clays have been about since the 1990’s. Jewelry artists and hobbyists can now mold and form precious metal as easily as play dough. Jewellery making of course goes back to man’s earliest days. The difference today is that you no longer have to hammer or cast your metal to make jewelry if you don’t need to. Silver clay now makes it feasible to make real metal forms without these traditional techniques. Here is how it functions. Silver and gold metal clays are made from fine metal particles suspended in an organic binder. This binder allows you to mold and shape the clay as you would potter’s clay. After you are happy with the form, you let your project dry for at least 24 hours ( or more ). You then fire it in a kiln or by using a hand torch. The binder burns away, leaving the fused metal behind in the shape you shaped it. Before you grab a lump of silver clay and go at it though, you’ll want to keep a few tenets in mind. Silver clay is not cheap, so you do not want to waste it. Tips for Working With Silver Clay Here are a considerable number of tips for working with silver clay : *Metal clays shrink 10-30% when fired. Be sure to take a look at your package for shrinkage levels particularly if you’re making rings or other objects that have to be exact fits. *Not all metal clays can be hand torch fired. If you won’t be employing a kiln be sure to check that your type of silver clay is "low fire". *Only tiny pieces should be torch fired. Pieces bigger than 25g should be kiln fired. *Silver clay is expensive. The gold version especially is terribly pricey. Be sure to shop carefully and follow instructions carefully so you do not waste your cash fruitlessly. *Metal Clay simply takes on impressions of other objects ( and fingerprints too ). Experiment with different textures and objects to make imprints onto the wet clay. *Gemstones that will stand up to the heat of firing can be set into the wet clay. *Be certain to let your metal clay dry entirely before firing. Firing damp clay won’t work and you won’t be a happy camper. *Metal clays are sticky to touch so be sure to coat everything with a thin film of olive oil or other release agent. This implies coat your hands, your tools, and working surface. Just a touch of oil will do, so don’t overdo it. *You can speed up drying time by placing your piece in a low heat oven. ( 150-200 degrees fahrenheit ). Pieces finely than your palm generally take about 24 hours to totally dry and harden without the stove treatment. *Sand your dried and hardened piece before firing. If you don’t like fingerprints, you won’t be well placed to remove them after firing. *Metal clay is water-soluble and can be slipped with water. Keep a tiny bowl of water or a spritzer at hand while you work. If it starts to dry out while working, you are able to add a little bit of water to moisten it. *Buying smaller packages is better than bigger as you will not have to fret about the whole block drying out. The price difference is immaterial, and you can waste extra cash by having to thru out old dried out clay. *You can extend the working time of your metal clay by adding a drop or two of glycerin ( available at pharmacies ) to your newly opened package of silver clay. To use : make a depression with your thumb in the clay, and add a drop or 2 of glycerin. Fold the clay a few times to mix in the glycerin, then spritz with water. Encase in plastic wrap and let sit so that the clay can soak up the glycerin. When you work with the clay the following day, use as normal. This trick will extend the working time, but also extends the drying time necessary before firing. *If you see a blackish mold, do not be concerned. This will burn away when firing. This mildew occurs when you use regular tap water to moisten the clay. *Playing cards make great "spacers" when rolling out clay to an even thickness. Just stack cards on either side of the clay, then use your roller to roll out the clay between the cards. *To store metal clay between uses, be certain to spritz with water and wrap it well with plastic wrap. *different clays have different firing temperatures so be certain to match your firing temperature to your clay type. *Once fired, you should brush and burnish it to get a great shine. First brush well with a stiff brush to loosen any ash or remains, then wash with water. Then you’ll want to burnish the metal to .press it, make it smoother, and shinier. Use a burnishing tool made of agate or metal for this. The tool has a smooth face and pointy tip for burnishing the more detailed areas. *You can dunk the piece in water after firing to cool down it swiftly. *Firing you clay too shortly, at too low a temperature, or for too short a time may cause your project to break. Firing for too long may melt some of the detail. Now you have some silver clay suggestions, I bet you are psyched. You need to work with this leading edge material now! What will you make first? – – – – – – – – – – 相关的主题文章: